Articles on Photography
Essential Digital Information
Digital Imaging Glossary
From "FirstGlimpse" October 2011 issue
aperture:
An iris-like diaphragm opening that can expand and contract the lens to let you control the amount of light that passes through it, thus affecting the exposure. The term "f-stop" can be used interchangeably with aperture.
burst mode:
A camera mode that will let you capture several shots consecutively after pressing the shutter only one time.
CCD:
A charge-coupled device is a type of image-sensing component. It converts light into energy that can be stored as digital data on your camera.
depth of field:
The area that is in focus in front of and beyond the subject of your photo.
digital zoom:
Magnifies an image digitally by cropping it and filling in the rest with interpolated pixels, thus degrading the quality. Even if the numbers are impressive, never choose a camera based on digital zoom.
f-stop:
See aperture. Smaller f-stop numbers mean a wider lens opening; larger f-stop numbers mean a narrower lens opening.
ISO:
For digital cameras, the ISO setting measures the sensitivity to light (similar to how it does with film). Digital camera ISO settings, such as 200, 400, and up, should capture photos as if one were using film with such a speed. Lower ISO settings mean you need more light and vice versa.
LCD:
The screen on the back of the camera that lets you see a live-action view of your subject or your photo after you've taken it.
Lens:
The apparatus on the front of the camera that gathers and directs light toward the image sensor. In a digital camera, the lens likely has both an optical and digital zoom.
megapixel:
Approximately 1 million pixels. The higher the megapixel count, the higher the resolution and the more you can crop, which means you can create larger prints with better quality.
memory card:
Because digital cameras have very little onboard memory, they need flash memory cards to store more than a dozen or so images. The type of memory card you need depends on the make and model of your camera. Some of the most popular memory cards are Secure Digital, Multimedia Card, Compact Flash, and Sony Memory Sticks. In general, memory cards are quite small.
noise:
The small statistical variations among pixels that lead to (usually) minor distortions of color in a photo.
optical zoom:
The camera's mechanical ability to move the lens physically closer to your subject. With optical zoom, the higher the number (such as 5X or 10X), the better. When choosing a camera, always consider the optical zoom, not the digital zoom. Digital zoom artificially adds pixels.
resolution:
The number of pixels in an image. The higher the resolution, the more detail and quality in a photo. Resolution is measured in a proportion (such as 2,272 x 1,704).
shutter:
A mechanism that opens and closes to allow light to pass through the lens. You can usually control the camera's shutter speed.
shutter speed:
The length of time a camera's shutter is open to let light through the lens and hit the sensor, which records the image. This is expressed in fractions of a second: For instance, a shutter speed of 1/250 means that the shutter is open for 1/250th of a second.
viewfinder:
The small opening in the camera that the user looks through to frame a shot. Some digital cameras don't have a viewfinder and only use a camera's LCD to frame the shot.
white balance:
Light levels are adjusted electronically to ensure whites in a certain environment are pure, leading to more life-like colors. White balance can usually be manually adjusted, too.
Essential Digital Information
Noteworthy Accessories and Services
From "FirstGlimpse" October 2011 issue
UV Filter:
Protects digital camcorder and DSLR lenses from dust, dirt, fingerprints, and scratches. It also helps you get clearer, more detailed results when you're shooting in bright conditions.
Memory Cards:
Keep spare memory cards on hand so you can snap away without having to worry about running out of storage space. Consider having several memory cards with smaller capacities instead of one card with a larger capacity; that way, if something goes wrong with one card, you'll still have a backup. For your digital camcorder, keep more recording media in your bag than you think you'll need, just in case.
Additional Lenses & Converter Lenses:
Extra lenses for DSLRs and converter lenses for digital camcorders can enhance your results by extending your field of view, reducing glare, adding 3D, and more. Telephoto lenses enable you to zoom in from far away, wide-angle lenses give you the ability to get a full view even if you're close to the subject, and macro lenses will let you achieve up-close, detailed shots of your photo subject.
External Flash:
Light up your subjects from greater distances. EF's offer better control of lighting conditions when taking photos by directing the angle of the flash.
Spare Batteries & Chargers:
Make sure you're never caught without the power needed to capture the perfect moment. Whether your camera uses proprietary batteries or AAs, keep at least one fully charged spare or set in your camera bag. An additional battery charger will give you the flexibility to power up your camera batteries anywhere you're headed, even if you're traveling.
Tripod:
Tripods are an easy way to ensure steady video footage. Pan while recording video in one smooth motion. Use a tripod and your camera's timer to get a picture of the entire group without needing someone to man the camera. Tripods keep your camera steady while you're shooting closeup or distance shots, which can prevent photo blurring.
Remote Switch:
A longer cable lets you snap photos without having to touch the camera, which can also reduce camera shake. A RS may enable the user to lock the shutter for longer exposure times.
Digital Imaging Services:
Once you've set your sights on the camera or camcorder you want, consider taking advantage of the digital imaging services offered by your local CE retailer. Not only can you protect your investment, but you can also discover photography and videography skills that will make your photos and videos picture-perfect.
DSLR or Camcorder Service Plan
DSLR Training Course
Camcorder Training Course
Essential Digital Information to Know!
The Image Sensor
From "FirstGlimpse" October 2011 issue
What is an image sensor?
Also called an image sensing element, an image sensor is a silicon chip that converts light into electricity, which is then converted into digital data. These sensors are used in digital cameras, camcorders, and mobile phones to create images.
How is digital data used in a digital camera?
After light is converted to digital data, that data is processed within the camera into a digital image that's stored to internal memory or a removable memory card.
How is an image sensor's ability to capture light measured?
Image sensors capture light using picture elements, or pixels, of which there are millions in place on a sensor. Manufacturers generally tout a sensor's photo-capturing power in megapixels, or 1 million pixels.
What is resolution?
Resolution is the number of pixels an image contains. The higher the resolution, the more details are included and the larger quality prints are possible. Typically, 8MP resolution can produce prints up to 8 x 10 inches.
What are CCD and CMOS image sensors?
These are the two most common types of image sensors used in consumer electronics. CCD stands for charge-coupled device and CMOS stands for complementary metal-oxide semiconductor. Although both types convert light to electricity, each pixel in a CCD is devoted to only capturing light while CMOS' pixels may perform additional tasks.
Which is better: CCD or CMOS?
Prevailing opinion is that neither offers huge advantages over the other. Traditionally, CCDs were thought to produce better quality but consumer more power. CMOS is considered faster and cheaper to manufacture.
How does an "effective" pixel count differ from an "actual" pixel count?
Actual is how many pixels the sensor has, though not every pixel may be used. Effective is how many pixels are used to capture light. A sensor's effective count is usually slightly less than its actual count.
How can an image sensor's physical size influence image quality?
Generally, the larger a sensor is, the more light and details it can capture. Thus, two cameras may tout the same resolution, but if all else holds equal, the camera with the larger sensor will provide better quality.
100 Tips on Photography!
by Ronald Zincone
Be sure to clean both your front and rear glass elements on your lens.
Always place a UV/Haze protecting filter on all your lenses.
Use a lens hood when you need it and most frequently.
Clean your optics and LCD with an optical cleaning cloth.
Make the tripod your best friend.
Make the remote shutter release your next best friend.
Buy a tripod made out of carbon fiber with a ball head & quick release.
Be sure that tripod will extend up to your height and eye level.
Do not use the center column for camera support.
Use the double-bubble level to keep your horizons straight.
Use the right-angle finder to avoid bending over and looking up.
Use proper techniques when hand-holding your camera.
Be sure to double up on your batteries and memory cards.
Don't put all your eggs in one basket - "bracket" your images.
As a general rule, keep your ISO on 100 or the lowest number.
Bump up your ISO only as the last resort.
Replace your lens caps when not using your camera.
Use a memory-card reader when downloading your images.
The LCD drains your camera's battery the most.
Practice, Practice, Practice!
Digital is cheap, no longer 39 cents per click, take lots of photos.
Be sure to format your memory cards once the images are downloaded.
Back up your images to an external, portable hard drive.
If you cannot see a clear image in the viewfinder, check the diopter.
Be sure to capture your image at the camera's highest resolution.
Downsize the edit your images at the post-processing stage.
Always carry a back-up camera on you, a point-and-shoot does well.
The camera is dumb! It does not know what your subject is.
The camera captures images in 2D - our eyes see in 3D.
Post-processing helps to restore the subject the way we saw it.
The Polarizing filter is the most essential filter for digital.
Photoshop and post-processing cannot duplicate the polarizer.
Have a strobe in your camera bag for painting the landscape.
Watch the Skies!
Shoot mirror-like reflections in the early morning after sunrise.
Alternate filters to consider are the Neutral-Density (ND).
ISO is the sensativity of your sensor.
Higher ISO reduces resolution and increases digital "noise".
Av or A stands for Aperture
Tv or S stands for Shutter
Always select the largest image size and finest quality.
DSLR cameras have more capabilities then point-and-shoots.
SLR stands for "Single Lens Reflect"
Learn to shoot both in horizontal and vertical orientation.
Find unusual and unique angles when composing your subjects.
The best time to shoot flowers is during cloudy or overcast skies.
A polarizing filter reduces glare, darkens blue skies and saturates.
Do not shoot during the mid-day when the sun is high above you.
Capture / Create your images during the "magic hour"
The "magic hour" is 1/2 to 1 hour before/after sunrise/sunset.
When the sun is high above: sleep, read, eat lunch, post-process!
Today's consumer/prosumer digital cameras have APS-C size sensors.
Full-frame DSLR's are expensive and have 24X36 full-frame sensors.
24X36 is the size of a 35mm format.
Photography is a "Money Pit"
In photography, "glass" is your optics.
Buy the best quality "glass"
Invest your money into your "optics" and less into your camera.
A "prime lens" is usually faster, sharper and is a single focal length.
"Zoom lenses" have a focal length range such as 70-200mm.
Aperture is the "opening of your lens"
The shutter opens and closes at a specified time during exposure.
Aperture directly effects "Depth of Field" (DOF)
Shutter directly effects "Capturing or showing motion"
Use "automatic" settings to "Get The Shot"
To learn & understand photography, we must learn the creative zone.
"Bracket" your images!
Once the sun sets below the horizon, DON'T LEAVE!!!!
"Exposure Compensation" helps you acquire proper exposure.
Find your main subject
Focus attention on your main subject
SIMPLIFY
Always obtain "proper exposure"
Always obtain "tack-sharp images"
For tack-sharp images, use a tripod and remote shutter release.
"Fast Glass" means lens apertures that have f2.8 or lower.
Lenses with lower apertures soak up light and are great for low-light.
When interchanging lenses, cover your sensor to prevent sensor dirt.
Photoshop can delete "sensor dirt" on your images.
Use a Hoodman Hood to view your LCD in bright daylight.
Learn the "Photographer's Triangle" or "Exposure Pyramid"
Any tripod is better then no tripod.
In space limitations, use a monopod.
Compare the "basic zone" to the "creative zone"
Full Auto mode turns your DSLR into a point-and-shoot, kind of.
If a unique subject appears, like a rainbow, capture it at all costs!!!
Use a point-and-shoot auto everything or even your cell phone!
ISO stands for International Standards Organization
Keep a flashlight with you for "painting with light" or use a strobe!
Remember the Tic-Tac-Toe grid to aid in composing.
With practice, you will develop your "photographer's eye"
Photography is a science and an art.
Learn to use your camera as a "tool" in the field.
It's not the violin but the violinist.
With practice, everything becomes second-nature.
Photography requires patience, practice, diligence and sacrifice!
Look at the images in National Geographic.
Learn from other photographer's images.
Join a photography club!
Go to ronaldzinconephotography.com for "Digital Made Easy"
Optics and Photographic Lenses
by Ronald A. Zincone
Good glass! Have you ever heard that photographic term? In photography, 'glass' means our 'optics'. There are many factors involved when it comes to choosing the right photographic lenses.
I always tell my students that it is more important to put your money into "better glass" then a camera body. It is the quality (engineering) of our optics that will better your photography. The major brands like Nikon and Canon offer to novice photographers what is known as "kit lenses". These often come bundled with your camera body and you could also purchase them singlely. Now, these 'kit' lenses are fine for those on a low budget or just starting out in the pursuits of photography, but be aware that the optics in these kit lenses are the lowest quality available from that manufacturer.
The construction of these lenses tend to be cheaper, usually mostly plastic and therefore will be less durable. The optics will be low-end. Again, great for your budget and fine for decent images starting out. As you get more serious with your photography, especially if you are thinking about making money with it, invest some of your money into higher-end lenses as soon as you can afford it. Canon and Nikon offer middle-range lens that are still affordable and will give you more durability and optical quality.
Some of the best, high-end, optics are Canon's "L" lenses (Luxury or Pro lenses) and Nikon's "Nikkor" lenses. This is serious 'glass' folks. Lens tend to be of high construction and durability, highest grade of optical quality and engineering and often weatherproofed and dust resistent. These also tend to be heavy lenses because of their better construction and number of optical elments. Be prepared to be set back anywhere from $700 to $1800 on these bad boys. You'll be in the big leagues now!
So, my advice to you is to think ahead. If your budget allows better optics and you think that you may be or become serious about photography and making money doing it, then invest in the best 'glass' you can afford early on. If you are on a limited budget and you are just starting out, buy the 'kit' lenses or maybe something in between the starter lenses and the mid-range lenses. Shop around. There are many other third party brands such as Sigma, Tokina, Tamron and more!
Digital Made Easy!
by Ronald A. Zincone
The Digital Revolution has been, is currently and will be our way of life for quite some time to come. That's a given. The Digital Age can mean many things to many people for better or for worst. One thing we don't want but I often see is students in my classes that are confused and overwhelmed by this new technology.
What to do? For starters, let me teach you "Digital Made Easy"! Sign up at ronaldzinconephotography.com for one of my courses such as the "Intro to digital photography" or the "Canon EOS" courses. My goal is to teach the student a basic recipe in learning and understanding "photography" as an art and science. I teach you 'only what you need to know' so that you not only learn and understand photography and the digital age but you will learn how to use your digital camera as a tool in the field while elminating all that confusion and overwhelmed feelings!
For example, digital cameras today, in my opinion, have to many bells and whistles that easily adds to an already deeper learning curve. There are only 2 camera modes on your dial mode that you need to learn how to use. At least 90% of all your photography subjects can be created and captured in these 2 modes. I can teach any student the concepts of photography and the digital aspect in One Easy Lesson!
Truly, digital can be made easy because I show the student how to eliminate all those extra dials, lights, buttons and symbols that you really don't need to use. Now, don't get me wrong, it is always a good thing to learn about all the manipulations of your camera. Know what they are, what they do and why, but focus on learning the main ingredients that you need to create and capture better images, get yourself up to speed, climb the learning curve faster and better your portfolio!
As more advances in digital technology takes place, we are seeing that digital cameras, whether a SLR or Point & Shoot, are featuring more options (bells & whistles) then ever. In many cases, this could be a good thing, but for many novice students that I teach, I find that their main concerns are learning to use their camera better and creating better images. There's a saying, "less is more".
So, student, why not sign up now at ronaldzinconephotography.com
and give yourself the gift of learning and understanding photography in One Easy Lesson! I would be honored to teach you "Digital Made Easy!"
"ronaldzinconephotography offers numerous courses in photography in classroom settings at several locations. He also offers private, individual hands-on instruction, fieldtrips & workshops, consultations, marketing products and educational products."
Introduction to Basic Night-Sky Photography
by Ronald A. Zincone
Astrophotography is a specialized form of photography that deals with extreme low-light and long exposures. Astroimaging or night-sky photography, which it is also known as, can be frustrating but rewarding at the same time! There are many variables involved that can and will determine the outcome of your success in this "niche". There are also several levels of astrophotography but we will talk here about the most basic which is camera-on-tripod astroimaging. The advantages of this type of astroimaging is that you don't need to carry around and setup a telescope or other accessories like field batteries, ccd cameras, laptops, etc...all you need is a 35mm SLR (single-lens reflex) camera (film or digital) that allows you to set your shutter control to Bulb or "B". This setting allows the astrophotographer to capture long exposures of celestial subjects. The shutter can be open for several seconds to several hours or indefinitely until battery power is exhausted or your optics dew up. Astroimaging involves capturing astronomical objects that are points of light or extended objects that are very dim and can only be truly imaged at night. Therefore, long exposures in very low-light is the norm. In addition to the 35mm SLR, also required is a cable release (film) or a remote shutter release (digital) so that you do not touch the camera and induce vibrations. The last item needed is a light-weight but sturdy tripod which is vital for long exposure photography!
Both the shutter cable release and the tripod help in keeping your camera on tripod steady so that vibrations are reduced and image blurring is avoided. There are many factors that can interfere with your night imaging session including wind, local light pollution, distance to major cities or the quality of your dark-sky site, wildlife, car traffic, airplane traffic, fireflies, and you as the photographer. Dew can also be a major factor especially in warm humid regions. If your optics should dew up, I suggest you zap them with a low-intensity hair dryer to heat up the optics and remove the moisture. But, remember not to hold the dryer too close to the lens. Since camera optics are much smaller than telescopic optics, it is less time consuming to fix. Astrophotography is the toughest test on your optics. Celestial subjects which are millions, billions or even light years away are trying to be captured during extreme low-light and long exposures and hoping that the image resolution is sharp throughout the frame with no aberrations. For those of you who are still using film or want to start with film, an additional factor is the reciprocity failure. During long exposures, 35mm film will only soak up so much light and then fall off and cease gathering light onto the image. Each film has a different reciprocity cutoff, some better than others. Digital sensors, on the other hand, do not have this problem and actually continue to gather light.
Film also has grain intrusion, especially on the higher ISO's. Digital has no grain but can have "noise". Usually, the higher the ISO settings, like film, the more "noise" can show up on the image. With today's modern DSLR's with better technology like noise reduction, grain is less of a problem. And remember, from earlier in this article, that colder temperatures help reduce "noise" in DSLR's. Running a DSLR on electrical power instead of battery power will also help reduce "noise." If upon reading this article a spark has been ignited in you to try your hand at astrophotography, I highly recommend starting out in the low end of the pool which is camera-on-tripod astroimaging. Here the learning curve is at its shallowest and the rewards are greater and more instant. Equipment needed is less which means it is easier to lug around and get setup and easier on your wallet. I recommend buying a sturdy but lightweight carbon-fiber or magnesium fiber tripod with either a 3-way pan head or a ball head, a 35mm DSLR of at least 6 megapixels or higher and a remote shutter release. I personally recommend either Canon or Nikon. If you decide to go with a DSLR I suggest you keep in mind the following information. Limit you use of the LCD screen viewer since overuse will drain your in-camera batteries and heat up your sensor leading to more "noise." Continue your imaging while you can and then edit your images later when downloaded to your computer.
You want to be able to spend your time in the field capturing the celestial subjects and/or unexpected astronomical events. Post-processing can be done later. Try to use an electrical connection as your main power instead of your in-camera batteries in order to preserve your batteries and limit the sensor heating contributing to "noise." Determine if you need to use the "noise reduction" and "mirror lock-up" options in your DSLR. It would be wise to have an extra set of batteries and an extra memory card with you. If you need to use the custom functions such as ISO expansion, be sure to reset your custom functions back to the original ISO settings. For those of you using film, remembering to correctly load your film and rewinding and unloading your film is crucial. Set your shutter to Bulb or "B". Set your lens to "infinity." Connect your cable release and begin shooting exposures in a way that "brackets" your images. Since astroimaging is so demanding on your optics and since there are so many variables in this specialized form of photography, "bracketing" will help to reassure you that you may at least get one "keeper." Yes, you still have to wait to see the results when returned from the lab, but "bracketing" your images will give you some advantage. Of course, with digital, you just continue shooting and see the results instantly. This gives the astroimager a great advantage since he or she will be able to review a photo, critique it, and then decide on what immediate changes need to be made in the field. But remember what I mentioned earlier. Don't over use the LCD viewer. So, what kind of celestial objects can you capture with this method of astrophotography? To name a few, constellations, the moon, the planets, meteors, eclipses, auroras, star trails, satellites, space stations, conjunctions, etc...as you can see, there are quite a few celestial targets to aim for. Exposure times can vary from a second to as much as several hours! Becoming an astrophotographer also means to set aside time to keep up with what is going on in the night sky. Your best sources would be Astronomy Magazine and Sky & Telescope Magazine for hardcopy and for the internet, Spaceweather and Heavens Above
By keeping abrest of what is happening, you can plan your astroimaging session to coincide with unique, historical or rare astronomical events. As I mentioned earlier, "astrophotography" is very unique and you never know what you are going to capture. Some astronomical occurrences are unplanned such as a bright fireball or bolide streaking across the sky or an unexpected auroral storm! These types of events provide the night-sky photographer with chances to capture "trophy" photos or "keepers" for your portfolio. Sometimes, these images may even provide a contribution to the science community! To learn more, check out my online portfolio under Photography or do a Google search under "astrophotography".
What is astrophotography?
by Ronald A. Zincone
Have you ever wondered if the night-sky could be captured on camera? Did you think that only the Hubble space telescope could accomplish such a feat? Introduce astrophotography. Astrophotography: What is it? Also known as astronomical, celestial or night-sky photography, astrophotography is a specialized form of photography which is not widely known and combines astronomy, photography and nature. According to author Bert Krages from his book Heavenly Bodies: the Photographer's Guide to Astrophotography, "astrophotography is one of the most demanding applications of optics". (Amherst Media). Why is it pursued? Astrophotography is unique in that you are attempting to expose in extreme low-light of celestial objects that are billions of miles or light years away. It is very challenging yet rewarding to the pursuer and may also open the door to scientific discoveries.
Many astroimagers will tell you that capturing a deep-space subject, such as a galaxy or nebulae, light years away hooks you forever. Maybe most importantly is the astroimager's connection to the earth and our place in the cosmos.
Who pursues it? Astrophotography is most-often pursued by individuals who have a special connection to science and art. Specifically, astronomy and photography. Astroimagers may be from any walk of life but many have made the jump into this "niche" from roots in amateur astronomy. Some are photographers who strive for the extremes while others have a general love for nature. According to professor and astroimager David Malin, "Astrophotography attracts an interesting variety of people. Many are experienced camera users looking for new and unusual image-making opportunities. Other potential recruits are already fascinated by the night sky, astronomy and space". (Forward by David Malin, p.4, Astrophotography: An introduction to film and digital imaging, Arnold, H. J. P., Firefly Publishing). Where is it done? There is a saying in real estate which also applies to night-sky photography: Location, Location, Location. Astrophotography is best accomplished in dark site rural areas where there is very little light intrusion. The darker the skies, the better the "seeing" is and the more successful your photo shoot. How is it accomplished and when? The most basic level of astrophotography, known as camera-on-tripod, can be pursued using only basic equipment as follows: 35mm SLR camera, film or digital, with a "Bulb" or "B" setting for long-exposures. For optics, a standard lens in the 50mm range with a f2.8 setting as a starter. A cable release (film) or remote shutter release (digital). A light weight but sturdy tripod Basic astroimaging is a simple approach. Just aim the field of view on your target, set your lens to infinity and check focus, lock open the shutter for a specified time, close it and then on to the photo lab or your LCD screen. Astrophotography is most often done during the dark hours of the night, mainly later at night and during the early morning hours. The advantages to imaging later at night are: less light pollution, steadier atmosphere, less air traffic fewer interruptions. The disadvantages: sleep deprivation, colder temperatures in colder regions, dew, and the darkness at night.
